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Batu Ferringhi and a Carnival of Comestibles

Our second day in Penang began with the same breakfast of toast and banana bread at the Hutton Lodge. Our plan for the day was to wheel north to a beach area called Batu Ferringhi. After crossing our hearts and swearing to make no puns or allusions to Star Trek, we brought the speed TRs downstairs and unfolded them for the wheel.

We made our way northward past towering hotel after sky-scraping condominium, discussing the best way to design an algorithm to separate signal from noise in the wavering of our compass reading, which at times became quite violent on the bumpy roads. Soon we found ourselves in a region that called itself Miami. We took a short side wheel here to explore more of the sparklingly posh housing developments. The sea to our side was becoming cleaner and bluer the farther we traveled from the busy port in Georgetown, and soon we were looking out at white sand beach on one side, and think jungle punctuated by expensive housing developments on our left. Both Scott and I could not help drawing parallels between this wheel and a popular wheel in San Francisco and Marin County known as Paradise Loop. Both sported good smooth roads, gentle elevation changes, cliff-side views of the sea, and generally expensive real estate. We had, in fact, enjoyed a very similar wheel during the planning phase for this trip. I know, dear reader, it was a mere three months ago, but now it feels like many ages have passed. The extremes of experience, indeed.

Back in Penang, Malaysia we were nearing Batu Ferringhi, and not long after we passed the Hard Rock Hotel Penang, we decided to stop for refreshment on the beach.

We sipped from very cold and slightly fermented young coconuts. It was our suspicion that the coconuts had sat for some time in the fridge, but the yeasty flavor was nice, and the meat had a tang that we quite enjoyed. If this was not a local delicacy, we would petition for its installation as one.

We drank and ate these, allowing the sweat to evaporate from our bodies and clothes, and watched 40-50 year old European tourists take horse back rides on the beach, or try their hand at para-sailing. When the coconuts were done, and at least five Avril Lavigne Songs had played on the Malaysian pop station at the restaurant, we decided it was time to climb back on the cycles.

We kept riding north, right through and out of Batu Ferringhi, into the more rural northern parts of the isle of Penang. Traffic thinned and jungle and beach began to dominate our view from the road. Soon we found ourselves at the entrance to a new, more rural settlement. This one seemed much less dominated by tourism, justifying its existence as a fishing community, and a kind of commuter’s suburb of the more touristy Batu Ferengi. The hunger was beginning to clench around us, and we called a Rausch into the township.

We rode around for quite some time before selecting a shop. None of them looked clean, so we needed to survey the area to find the one that was most popular. Our hypothesis was that if we were unable establish an estimate of cleanliness from the exterior of the business, perhaps the presence of as many un-diseased patrons as we could spot would point us in the right direction. And, dear reader, this it did.

We ended up parking the cycles outside a joint by the name of the Cafe Ibriham. It was a buffet style restaurant, where we were given a large plate with a dollop of white rice, and set loose upon a table piled high with large metal trays, filled with various dishes, just swimming in their own succulent juices, and regrettably covered with flies.

But it was a choice between full on starved lunacy, and this food. And to be honest, the smells coming from the buffet were intoxicating. So we put our faith in the doxycycline and dove in. The food proved absolutely delicious, exhibiting such diversity of spicing and texture.

My plate for example contained some curried fried chicken, a roasted fish, a pile of squid gravy, some cinnamony red sauce full of tiny fish, a paprika-filled fried egg, and a little pile of very American tasting homefries.

Delightful. Truly delightful.

As the blood sugar surged back into our systems, we took to the streets, wheeling hard and fast back toward Georgetown.

Back in town, we called a waypoint to sip a milk shake, and then took back to the streets. Cursed by the unbelievable number of one way streets in Penang, we found ourselves again and again siphoned onto the same streets. We were searching for the coffee place we had seen on the previous evening’s wheel. Finally, we were able to make our way back into Little India, where we were forced in desperation to just ride against traffic, until we found the place.

Sure enough it was vacuum pot coffee, and at 10 ringgit a cup, the owner was quite happy to explain the entire process to us at length.

Afterward, we wheeled down the streets to a music store selling Tamil super hits.  We indulged in a Rajnikanth mp3 CD with 27 films worth of music.   Below, the video from one of our favorite tracks:

That evening we made our way to a local mall food court that was set up in the local emergent restaurant style.  Tables in the food court were flanked on either side by stands selling individual and specialized delicacies.  Some vendors had appeared for the evening, and others had begun their Chinese New Year vacation early.  There we were able to try a number of local delicacies, such as Ais Kecang, a red bean and ice cream medley for dessert.

With our stomachs filled and blood sugar once again on the rise, we decided to indulge in a night wheel through the surrounding and very Chinese neighborhood. We called a waypoint when we heard some commotion, and found a little carnival tucked into a pedestrian mall. It appeared to be in celebration of the fast approaching Chinese New Year, and we were enthralled by the strange carnival games and terrifying deathtrap rides, which constituted the operation.

Once again, thrilled at our good fortune, with full bellies and smiles on our faces, we wheeled back through the night to the Hutton Lodge.

A Profile of the Dahon Speed TR

Disclamer: Asiawheeling was given our Speed TRs by Dahon, Inc. In return, we have agreed to feature the cycles on this website. That said, the opinions expressed here are those of AsiaWheeling alone; and as we continue to use these cycles on the trip we pledge to honestly share with you, dear reader, both the positive and negative natures of the cycles as they present themselves.

It is our transport, our passion, and has saved our lives more than a few times. In the field, exclamations of “God bless the speed TR!” are not uncommon. But what is it? And why is it so invaluable in the field?

STRLogoDirty

The Dahon Speed TR is a rough-and-tumble collapsible bicycle with the fortitude to withstand the crumbling and hardscrabble streets of the developing world, but with the responsiveness and maneuverability to handle the fastest descent, and the quick braking required to respond to changes in the landscape and traffic. The AsiaWheeling speed TRs are equipped with a few notable features.

SeatsDownandLock

Easily Adjustable Seats that can be lowered and locked to the cycles for high-security parking

STRStrapped

Front and Rear Racks for strap-down and transport of equipment

CheckingThedynamo

Each front wheel is equipped with a dynamo hub. Inside the hub is an electrical generator that can be used to power a headlamp, or to charge a mobile device.

Transmission

The Speed TR uses an innovative transmission – a hybrid system of normal derailleur-based sprocket transmission and a planetary transmission found inside the rear hub. The value here is not only that the Speed TR is able to reach more extreme gear ratios and provide us with more fine-tuned gearing during the ride, but with two types of gearing, even if one of them fails in the field we are not left completely gearless.

Speed TR Horns

A set of Magnesium Alloy mini bullhorns allow us to vary our hand position while riding to prevent blisters and hand injury on a long ride. They also make the cycles look intimidating, which help when merging into traffic.

STRShifter

Brakes and shifters are made out of a light weight alloy, and include interesting imagery to aid us in selecting the appropriate gear ratio.

EquipedBars

Handle bars are equipped with a compass bell hybrid. The compass is right most of the time, and the bell is an essential from of communication when in traffic.

AsiaWheeling Handlebars also sport a Knog Nerd cycling computer which lets us know our speed and distance traveled, and a Knog Frog LED headlamp, both of the Knog products are easy-on easy-off. We have quite a few of the lights so when we need to light the Speed TRs up like aircraft carriers, we can.

Speed TR Pedal Removal

Quick release  pedals to aid in decreasing the profile of the cycle during transport. Also, in most of the developing world, no one has ever seen quick release pedals before, so there is little chance someone will try to make off with them.

ReadFender

Vital features of the Speed TR are the front and rear fenders. Particularly useful in preventing cholera ridden street puddles from splashing up into the eyes.

Tyres

The Speed TR comes standard with Kevlar re-enforced tires. Since we are often riding over terrain that is littered with glass, gnarly pieces of metal, and vicious potholes, we are constantly thankful for this extra protection.

Kickstand

The kickstands on the Speed TRs are the nicest, smoothest operating, and most durable examples of this accessory that I have yet come across. More importantly, they hold the bikes up when we park.


We carry with us a tri-wrench, which is able to perform almost all tightening and normal maintenance, from replacing brakes, to adjusting the seat.  With the addition of a wrench to remove the wheels, we are able to wheel with a minimum amount of tools, but full control over the  mechanics of the cycles.


To fold the cycle one disengages two latches, one which connects the handle bars to the frame, and another, which allows the frame to break in half.


Fully collapsed it takes up about as much room as a large suitcase, and is ready to pack on a plane, train, or automobile.

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